Minotaur

$34.97
Unit price per
Save $13.03

Please select the variant you want, in one of three poses, or as a full set (one of each pose).

Your miniature will arrive unpainted, and will require some cleaning and trimming, just like all the other miniatures you're used to.

Every labyrinth needs at least one Minotaur. What better way to give your players fame and fortune than to have them rid your dungeon of a legendary beast? A Minotaur can also act as an NPC quest-giver, summoned monster, or as a recurring villain!

Features:

-Large size, approximately twice the height of your 28mm-32mm heroes
-Three poses available, Port Arms, Low Ready, and High Ready

-Printed in resin to show as much detail as possible.

-Quantity discounts are available.

-Other sizes can be made, just ask and we'll make a custom one for you :)

Modeling and Painting Tips:

- I try to get you the best and most detailed miniatures possible. Due to the small scale of the finished product and the limitations of current printing technology, some of the detail you see in the render photos will not be as sharp or as pronounced as the digital model. You can get a very good representation of fur, armor, and skin using simple drybrush techniques, by applying layers of paint in a traditional methods, or by using washes and glazes. Any type of paint will do.

- I do my best to clean and remove supports used in the manufacturing process. I'm not perfect, ask my wife, and I'll probably miss a few. If your model is unacceptable for any reason, please let me know and I'll make it right.

- When you find small support stubs left on the model, use a sharp hobby knife to CUT them away. I stress CUT, because if you try to pry them off, you might find a small chunk of the model has also come away with the unwanted stub. Often it's enough to gently apply pressure with the cutting edge of the blade where the stub meets the miniature, and not actually cut through anything, the stub will fall off on it's own with some encouragement. Just don't pry or lift it off.

Note: By soaking the miniature in warm water for a few minutes, the resin will soften and you will get much better results, and the resin will be much more forgiving of your cuts. The miniature can be dunked in water repeatedly to keep the cutting work easy. Make sure the model is completely dry and any water left inside has a chance to drain out before painting.

- If you pop any chunks out of the mini, or if you want to fix any imperfections or drainage holes, I get the best results with some wood filler or Vallejo Plastic Putty, depending on the size of the piece. The Vallejo Putty is much thinner than wood filler, and will work much better on smaller details like armor, or over smooth surfaces like skin. You can use a toothpick or hobby knife to draw the filler material over the miniature. Tease it around the area and you should be able to avoid any buildup that might obscure the detail. A little water on the tools you're using goes a long ways to keeping the material pliable and from sticking to your tools.

- If you choose to file or sand any imperfections away, please consider wetting the paper/file, and keeping the surface of the miniature damp to prevent resin dust from getting into your nose and lungs. A mask or respirator is highly recommended. Wash your hands and tools thoroughly, and make sure all dust residue is washed away.

- Painting is easiest when the miniature is primed first. I prefer a solid coat of Rustoleum Black Primer, followed by a zenithal dusting of Rustoleum White Primer. Make sure you're using a Primer, and not a Paint. Airbrush priming is also very useful, and will be the most effective way to preserve the detail of your miniature. AK Interactive Black Primer, followed by a zenith highlight of Liquitex White Ink are my preferred paints to use through an airbrush.

- I prefer to use specially formulated miniature paints from Acrylicos Vallejo, Formula P3, Games Workshop, The Army Painter, Secret Weapon Miniatures, AK Interactive, and Andrea Miniatures. Anything will work, you just have to be a little more patient with cheap acrylics. Always thin your paints a little, or at least keep your brush damp. As far as brushes go, inexpensive synthetic brushes are my preferred tool, unless I'm trying to add an insane amount of detail to a piece. We have some of these products available on our store. Oils, enamels, and gouache are all fine to use. Again, priming first will give you the best results.

The Fine Print -> Please Read:
*Small holes in the underside of the finished product are used during the manufacturing process to drain excess material and keep things affordable for you. They are easily filled, and easily hidden without filling once they're painted.
**Digital models are sculpted by the fantastic Duncan 'Shadow' Louca of whom we are a registered merchant. If there is anything from Duncan's digital file store, www.duncanshadow.com or Thingiverse account, www.thingiverse.com/DuncanShadow/designs that you want and we don't have listed, let us know and we'll make it for you. Thank you for your business, and we hope our products make it easier to enjoy your game!
***If your model arrives broken or in pieces please send me a picture and we will make things right.

Slayer of Monster is licensed to provide you with all the printed miniature and terrain options from Duncan 'Shadow' Louca, including the 'Minotaurs' prints. This listing is for one Minotaur model only. Model will arrive unpainted. Additional items are available on our store.